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Anubias Nana (Anubias barteri var. nana)

Anubias Nana is a slow-growing epiphyte with thick, dark, nearly indestructible leaves. It tolerates low light, needs no CO2, and attaches readily to stone and driftwood — keep the rhizome above the substrate and it will run for years with almost no care.

Care specifications

TypeRhizome
DifficultyEasy
LightLow (10–30 µmol PAR)
CO2Not needed
Fertilizer demandLow
Growth rateSlow
Max height6 in
Spread6 in
PlacementForeground, Midground, Epiphyte
Attaches to hardscapeYes
Snail & shrimp safeYes
Temperature72–82 °F
pH6–7.8
ColorGreen
TrimmingMinimal
StylesNature, Jungle, Biotope

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Anubias Nana

Anubias Nana Thick-Leaf Potted

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Propagation

Cut the rhizome into sections with at least three leaves each and reattach the divisions to hardscape.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my Anubias get algae on its leaves?

Because Anubias grows so slowly, its leaves stay in place long enough for algae to settle, especially under strong light. Place it in shaded spots, keep light periods to about 7–8 hours, and let amano shrimp or nerite snails graze the leaves clean.

Can Anubias flower underwater?

Yes. Healthy Anubias regularly produces a white, calla-lily-like flower fully submerged. It does not indicate a problem — enjoy it; the flower lasts a few weeks before melting back.

What is Anubias rot and can the plant be saved?

Rot announces itself as a stretch of rhizome going black and mushy, often spreading from a damaged spot. Cut back to firm green tissue with sterilized scissors, discard every soft piece, and reattach the clean sections where water circulation is stronger. Caught early, the surviving rhizome typically regrows.

Can Anubias survive with African cichlids or goldfish?

Yes — it is one of the very few plants that can. The thick, leathery leaves are too tough and unpalatable for grazers to bother with, and since the rhizome attaches to rock or wood, diggers cannot uproot it. Java Fern is about its only company in that role.

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